Pete once said that long riding is the hardest discipline in the equestrian industry because you are out there on your own, and you can’t rely on your equine professionals such as farriers, saddle fitters, and physios. You have to rely on your own skills and judgment.

We recommend that anyone going on a ride builds a good relationship with their equine professionals so they can be called and consulted at all times if needed. Remember, they know your horse and its history. As Pete always says: TIP YOUR FARRIER!

It goes without saying that you should consult all of your trusted professionals beforehand, but nonetheless, you should have basic knowledge of saddles, hooves, and the horse’s body. No matter how experienced you think you are, it’s important to understand just how much there is still to learn. It is absolutely vital to understand the science behind saddle fitting, weight, and balance so you can adjust these variables during your ride as problems will appear.

Lets fous on saddle fit

“When Luísa and I started our first long ride together, I knew almost nothing about saddle fit. Hell, I adjusted the gullet in a Wintec saddle to fit my fat little mare, Beersheba, by pulling it out and beating it with a sledgehammer to widen it.
To ride a horse on a long ride, it is essential you understand how to correctly fit a saddle to a horse AND adjust it while riding to ensure it still fits correctly as your horse loses weight and gains muscle during your ride.” – Pete

You don’t need to become a professional yourself, but there are some simple basics that are vital to understand and correct if needed. True saddle fit involves continuous assessment, adjustments, and an understanding of biomechanics to ensure peak performance and long-term soundness. Those nine points are there to help you to start to understand saddle fit.

The Nine Points of Saddle Fit

1. Balance

Without pads or rugs, place the saddle on the horse and slide it forward into place. The saddle should sit in such a way that if a pencil is placed in the seat of the saddle, it will roll and sit in the lowest point. If it sits too far forward or back, the pressure will be uneven on the horse’s back, and the rider’s position will not be correct, causing discomfort for both horse and rider.

2. Wither Clearance

A saddle should have two fingers’ clearance on the side of the withers and a good three or four fingers over the top. There must be room for the shoulders to move freely, and in long riding, I would always argue that more room is better.

3. Channel Width (“Gullet Width”)

It is essential in long riding that the gullet is wide enough to keep the entire spine free from pressure. The channel width should be a good four fingers wide along the length of the saddle, and it is preferable that it is flared at the rear end to avoid contact with the horse’s spine when bending or when the horse rocks its hips while going downhill. If the gullet is too wide, the contact with the saddle support area is reduced.

4. Saddle Straightness

Many horses are lopsided, and people often are too. Horses usually graze with one leg forward—usually the left—meaning the left side is often larger, causing the saddle to fall to the right. The saddle needs to sit straight, and this is easily diagnosed if incorrect by a rider following behind. This is best fixed by shimming the saddle to correct the issue, as a lopsided horse ridden in an even saddle will always suffer unless the saddle is adjusted to fit.

5. Full Panel Contact

With the saddle in place, slide your hand under the saddle on both sides, feeling for even contact along the horse’s back. If it is uneven, the saddle can rock or place uneven pressure on the horse’s back.

6. Billet Alignment

It is essential that the billets—where the girth attaches—hang perpendicular to the ground. If they are too far back, the saddle will constantly be dragged forward. If they are too far forward, it will drag the saddle onto the horse’s lumbar region. Neither is desirable, and both can cause girth and saddle fit issues.

7. Saddle Length

The saddle must sit only in the saddle support area, which lies between the shoulder and the last rib. For larger riders requiring a larger saddle, this may rule out smaller horses in many countries you wish to visit, especially short-backed horses such as the Arabians we encountered in Turkey. With a Western saddle, it is perfectly okay for the skirt to extend past the last rib, as long as no weight is past the rib.

8. Saddle Tree Angle

The angle of the saddle tree must match the angle of the horse’s shoulder. The horse’s shoulder must be free to move through its full range of motion without restriction.

9. Saddle Tree Width

The saddle tree needs to be wide enough to accommodate the shoulder without restriction. A medium or medium-wide tree is a safe bet if heading off to a place like Mongolia with your own saddle. I cannot stress enough how important it is in long riding to have a saddle that allows the shoulder to move freely.

There is an amazing video about the 9 point of saddle fit, from Saddle Fit for Life, where Pete studied to become an Equine Ergonomist. [Click here].

Saddle Fit and Why You Need to Know About It (The Big Three. Part 1)